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Lucky Seven: New Eateries where Eating's No Gamble
By Pamela Robin Brandt
September 10, 2006
“What is the answer?” asked Gertrude Stein, on her deathbed. Then, when no answer was forthcoming, came her famous last words: “What is the question?”
Food critics have no such philosophical conundrums. Everywhere we go, the question is always, immediately and invariably, “What’s your favorite new restaurant in town?” But this year there may, as for Stein, be no answer—or rather, given the wealth of exciting contenders scheduled to open this fall, too many answers.
Heading the Hot List is David Bouley Evolution [1669 Collins Ave, Miami Beach; 305-604-6090], the endlessly inventive NY chef’s first venture into the hinterlands. No mere knock-off, it promises to be even more conceptually dissimilar from his four Manhattan eateries (which range from fine dining restaurant to bakery) as those are from each other. The glamorous global spot, whose dishes celebrate Bouley’s culinary life experiences from France to Asia to New England, is due to open, at the Ritz Carlton South Beach, in late October.
Most exciting among other scheduled openings: a Doral branch of Coral Gables’ Chispa [11500 NW 41st Street], giving fans of chef Adam Votaw a chance to scarf down twice as much of his sinful crisp pork belly with garlic clams (not to mention the best bacalaitos in town); Johnny V South Beach, local culinary wonderboy Johnny Vinczcenz’s return to his original Sobe stomping ground, the Hotel Astor, with witty novelties like a “Tomate” trio of tomato soup, salad, and sorbet; and mega resto-lounge Karu and Y, downtown. The first two openings are projected for November, so probably December. Karu, due in October, has been scheduled to open since last October, but a round of September preview dinners suggests they’re serious, this year.
You’re hungry now, not next month? You’re in luck. Since last month’s opening night (an event much anticipated by local literati and glitterati, thanks to ownership by some Sobe nightlife heavy-hitters), Quattro Gastronomia Italiana [1014 Lincoln Road; 305-531-4833] has been packed with trendies yearning for tasty treats. These include authentic imports like an assortment of salumi (cured or preserved sliced meats), cream-filled burrata from Puglia, and the chefs, two adorable 29 year-old identical twins from Piemonte.
Two eateries that opened more quietly since out spring round-up are gems that are still best-kept local secrets: Restaurant Brana [276 Alhambra Circle, Coral Gables; 305-444-4595] and Fifty [444 Ocean Drive, Miami Beach; 305-532-2441].
Brana’s husband/wife team of Jeffrey and Anna Brana, Norman’s veterans, emphasize fresh Florida ingredients in elegant, cutting edge-creative comfort food like “Loxahatchee” (warm garlic soup with frogs’ legs and wild greens) or Key West pink shrimp with citrus, avocado, hazelnuts, smoked trout caviar, garnished with gorgeous locally, and organically, grown local garlic flowers. A recent meal here was, simply, the best I’ve had in years, anywhere in the world. Service was super, too.
Fifty’s Roly Cruz-Taura serves plantain-wrapped Peekytoe crab cake with beurre blanc and avocado aioli, Kurobuta pork osso bucco with succulent squares of pork crackling, and other Progressive American fare—a familiar genre, just unimaginably better done than most.
Both eateries are chef-owned and operated (i.e. unlike Emeril's et al, the name chefs are actually in the kitchen). Both look intimidatingly expensive, but are actually competitively-priced, for far better food. And both will be packed once national media discover them. Which will be soon. So go now.
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